I was looking forward to today’s visit to Stratford upon Avon. I haven’t seen all of England’s towns (wish I had) but I think I can safely say this is definitely one of the prettiest of them all. Obviously this medieval market town is particularly famous for one writer – William Shakespeare.
I’ll admit, I’m a fan. He’s influenced so much of our language and his stories continue to stand the test of time. I’m intrigued by the entire period he represents and so visiting Stratford upon Avon has always been part of my own ‘bucket list’ of places to see.
Today it’s my birthday – I’m an Anzac Day baby. Happy Birthday to me! It was a special day in Stratford upon Avon too, as April 25 marks the anniversary of Shakespeare’s funeral.
His birth home, Anne Hathaway’s cottage, Holy Trinity Church (where he’s buried) and various other monuments around the town showcased tributes and flowers to mark the occasion. Interestingly, William Shakespeare was born on April 23 – and he also died on April 23 (evidently in different years)! Weird – the thought did cross my mind today – is it sad, ironic or completely extraordinary that you’re born and die on the same day? Perhaps it just means you’re extra extra special, which he definitely was (and is).
Everyone in our group enjoyed Stratford upon Avon – apparently the second most visited place in England outside of London. It’s a delightful and interesting town where even if you’re ‘not into Shakespeare’, it’s impossible to not feel a little whimsical and romantic exploring the old streets and homes – all well maintained by diligent workers and fans of the Bard.
As part of the day’s adventures we visited Anne Hathaway’s enchanting cottage (pictured above). Steeped in history – if only the walls could talk.
Anne was William’s wife, and her family lived in this home for generations – up until 1911 in fact. Historical items in the home include beds (Anne’s parents’ bed as well as a bed that is thought to have been Anne and William’s ‘marriage bed’), kitchen and garden items.
The guide at the cottage, Alison, was SO knowledgeable and the visit was worthwhile for all her interesting facts and stories alone.
One thing I found incredibly entertaining was that she told us how in Tudor times, among much other baking, bread emerged from the oven burnt on the bottom (remember, no trays then); children under 11-years-old got the bottom bit first (they were ‘lowly’, like servants), next cut (or the ‘cut(s) above’) were distributed to the older children and so on; then the ‘upper crust(s)’ were given to the man of the house or distinguished guests. Hence class system connotations derived from a ‘simple’ process with a family loaf of bread – this, like so many other phrases coined from this period are still used to this day.
Today we also passed through quaint, intriguing little villages like Mickleton – home of the Three Ways House – a pub that lays claim to the popular ‘pudding club’ – renowned the country over! We also explored the exquisite villages of Broadway and Snowshill and stopped by a worthwhile lookout point (where on a clear day you can see all the way to Wales), Dover Hill – named after a guy called Robert Dover who actually came up with the concept of the Cotswold Olympick Games which this year celebrates its 400th milestone and highlights important cultural sports like… shin kicking – see a video here!
This is the second tour I’ve been lucky enough to be a part of, and once again I’m struck by how lovely it is to get to know different people from various parts of the world whom I might otherwise never have crossed paths with. Over breakfast, lunch, on the bus and while sipping on an afternoon coffee – each conversation with co-adventurers – solo travellers, couples, friends, mother-daughter teams and siblings – reveals something new: a positive attitude, life challenge overcome, surprising secret skill, a helpful piece of advice… It’s really possible to make lovely friends and be inspired on trips like this, because the bond of exploration and new experience is shared by all. We’re lucky to have amazing organised journeys on offer to us now – I’m a huge advocate of these tours because as I’ve said before – it ends up being about the travel and the (new) friends.
Musings from 1 December 2011: Sitting in a darkened coach (which once upon a time I would have called a ‘bus’ – inside joke, ask Steve our Welsh Expat Explore driver ;-), on my way back from beautiful Whistler Village in British Columbia.
As I stare back at my own reflection in the window, unable to make out the Sea to Sky view into the black night, it hits me all of a sudden. It’s the day I knew it would nearly be all over, just a few days before we head back to Australia.
When travel comes to an end – what to do when the adventure is ‘over’
It’s hard to not feel a little overwhelmed by this realisation, as all the memories of packing, goodbyes and new beginnings during our first week staying in Bloomsbury come flooding back as if it was all just yesterday. What will I do when travel comes to an end?
I began updating my old Sugoi blog space a couple of years ago in 2009. Our very first entries document when we came up with a grand plan to drop everything and start a new life in London for a year or more (a smart or brave thing to do in our thirties?). We talk about plans, excitement, challenges, apprehension but most importantly the adventure that lay ahead.
Since then I’ve had all manner of fodder to write about – new jobs, new homes, snow, Starbucks, dogs we’ve met in the park (or cafes, street or just about anywhere actually), first-times for everything from visiting European cities to being stuck in airports, and having to work out where to buy groceries and linen.
It’s been 16 mesmerising, special, amazing and unbelievable months. We’ve made new friends, embarked on adventures I never dreamed possible and visited places abroad that I never ever thought I’d have the opportunity to go.
I no longer shed a tear at the thought that I’ve ‘missed out’ on travel – feeling like I’ve lost the chance to gaze up at the glittering Eiffel Tower as it lights up into the evening or missed out on falling in love with Prague as I watch from the castle above the city.
I have had a chance to smile down at the Gondoliers as they calmly float on by through a Venetian canal, and be chastised by the Gladiators in Rome for taking a photo of them outside the Colosseum without paying my €5. There are so many things that make me smile now – memories that are mine and Cooper’s, not just scenes from a film.
A couple of years ago for some reason I thought I’d lost all chance to follow my dreams of living and working overseas, but fate stepped in and opportunities arrived seemingly out of the blue. I’m super excited to go home – it was sad to leave our parents, siblings and dog. I can’t wait to give them all a big hug.
My brother now lives in Australia after being away in Japan for five years. It was really sad to literally pass him as he came back into the country and I decided to leave. Since we’ve been gone a new baby nephew has come into the world. What a happy little guy he looks to be; he’ll be sick of me kissing him by the time Christmas rolls around (as will my other 5-year-old nephew, come to think of it). It will be nice to have a ‘home’ base again, at least for the time being. I mean, I think even my computer is getting tired of moving around, with its flickering screen that keeps crashing every few minutes – makes getting through work very frustrating, but I can’t be too upset, it has seen me through travels and work from the Gold Coast to Cairns, London to Paris, throughout Europe, Scotland, Dublin and across to Prince Edward Island, down to Boston, across to British Columbia and beyond.
How though, do I come to terms with the end of life as I presently know it, where every day brings somewhere and someone new across my path? When I was in London I saw another travel writer Tweet something about this and I’ve saved his feature on file… somewhere… I remember the key message though. He was discussing his life as a traveller and a journalist and how each day abroad is addictive, intoxicating − especially for some personality types: the drug of a new day and the exciting type of challenges that the lifestyle brings.
When he touches back down at home and is planning to be there for an extended period sometimes it’s challenging in itself to get back to the ‘real world’.
The lesson, he pointed out, is that travel and adventure should teach us to bring the new found love of exploration back home. Explore places in your backyard that you might not usually go to or that you take for granted. Write about it, film and photograph, share tips, tricks and strike up new friendships that you would if you were a tourist.
My adventure has provided me with so much insight into what can be done – by me and others. I have a feature on the topic in the pipeline for a very fabulous Aussie national monthly women’s consumer magazine (out mid 2012), I’ve learned the value of blogging and social media from my time in London; I have learned to love and be inspired by music again (also thanks to London) and I have ideas and inspiration regarding the future.
Once upon a time I had looked on this day as the ‘end of the adventure’, but now I maintain the hope that it’s really only just beginning. Next year I have the privilege of going back to England as the new Blogger for Back-Roads Touring – something I would never have had the tools or knowledge to even consider entering in the first place but for this time outside of my comfort zone.
Following some supremely inspiring interviews with a series of women aged between 30 and 40 who all decided to do the same as me – take a mid-career pause to live, work and travel overseas – I realised that not one of us for a single second regret taking this ‘time out’ to pursue some kind of crazy Eat Pray Love dream.
In fact, each agrees that regardless of any fears prior to leaving ‘home’, all have returned with a greater sense of inspiration and knowledge we can do so much more than we ever thought possible. Certainly some, like myself, feel just a little bit broken hearted about leaving what became a ‘new home’ (whether it was London, Paris, Vancouver…) but we don’t believe the adventure is over. It’s life changing, both for what’s happened in the past and what will be directed to happen by us in the future.
When travel comes to an end, what to do when the ‘adventure is over’? Start a new one.
After all that it appears it may already be over. In case you hadn’t figured it out, I’m writing this on my last morning in the UK. I never thought that on my way towards Canada (my ultimate travel destination) I’d feel despondent; I feel a bit like a broken-hearted girlfriend not ready to let it all go. Moving to England had its challenges and certainly it took us a good six months to settle in. Overcoming it all is part of the ultimate achievement though; in April we found a ‘home’ in a chic London Fields neighbourhood, settled in, the weather was sweet and I fell a little in love with London.
Apparently all good things must come to an end and although I’m grateful to finally get to travel to Canada again, I am sad to think it might a long while before I return to my ‘mother-land’ (which originally I had joked about, but I literally just discovered the sentiment to be true in a cool twist of history this week). Here is a land where I’ve fitted in, where the shopping is great, the people fun, surroundings energetic, buildings like The Tower of London are old and amazing and history of The Tudors and co. are everywhere in a contemporary setting, media and travel opportunities abound, and the pub culture is something that I actually enjoy…
Isn’t it ironic when you feel more at home somewhere else than ‘home’. Sounds like a song.
In preparation for this day, I’d compiled a list of my favourite things about England, specifically London. So, in celebration of the good times (which more often than not were at Bar Soho with our mates Nicole and Iain, Janice and Craig or the Fairbairn’s) I give you:
The things I love most about living here (ongoing list compiled 2010/2011):
1.It’s so cool (weather-wise) that I can wear my hair out (and grow it)! A simple pleasure but one that is difficult to enjoy in Queensland’s humidity.
2.Being able to wear hats, scarves and boots (special mention to Accessorize, and the accessories at Camden Markets)!
3.Darren Hayes and Gillian Anderson live here – awesome!
4.Seeing dogs bemused by squirrels in the park haha. And on that note, Squirrels score their own mention – I love ‘em. Have you ever noticed how they seem to play in pairs? So cute.
6.My truly, genuinely nice bunch of Sparkle girls.
7. London Fields, Middleton Road, The Pub on the Park, Broadway Market.
8.Dog people – everywhere!
9. Having the opportunity to meet inspiring writers, journalists, and people from all walks in general who are just really good (and accomplished) at what they do.
10.That people say ‘Bless You’: from others outside the UK it sounds a little out of place (except for my mum, she’s cute and has always said this); but many people say ‘Bless You’ affectionately here. I think it’s sweet, and quite ‘English’ in my experience.
And an honorary mention to Tesco, Saisburys, Waitrose, Boots and Superdrug – I miss you already.
It’s with a lump in my throat that I bid farewell to my ‘other’ home, all gloomy weather and grey skies that you generally may be. I hope to see you again sooner than anticipated. In the meantime who knows where we’ll end up? I only hope that the wishes we made upon superstitious monuments in various parts of Europe come true: that we continue to live happy, healthy, inspirational and adventurous lives. But shortly – time for a maple syrup fix! x
It’s amazing to know that in this day and age – following numerous wars, conflicts, industrial changes and migration to all corners of the world – that a medieval building like Blencowe Hall can be visited by me. Me, an Aussie living in London, coming back home, almost.
I say ‘by me’ because Blencowe Hall belonged to an original ancestor of mine in the Blinco clan.
I had the chance to visit Blencowe Hall because of my ancestral roots. You can actually hire the place for an event. It’s exquisite, set in the countryside just outside of Penrith, UK.
Blencowe Hall – the story
As two cyclists pause with cameras on the country path border of the gorgeous property I’m dancing excitedly around, I’m proud to say ‘it’s mine’!
Well, sort of.
You see, today we ventured to a village, more precisely a property, Blencowe Hall (pictured above).
‘Blencowe’, as you may have noticed, is quite similar to ‘Blinco’.
If you had figured that far, perhaps you correctly assumed that this is somehow related to me.
Related it is, literally, because over the past few years my family in Australia, along with a dedicated international group has been researching, documenting and sharing our ancestry.
It hails all the way from here – a little place called Blencow in northern England.
A book has even been published on our origins – American and Australian migrants.
It covers our surname variations – Blencow, Blencowe, Blincoe, Blinco.
We’re lucky because our surname is unique and more easily traceable than some.
One popular theory over this side of the world is that a young lad, Robert Blincoe, was actually the ‘real’ Oliver Twist! But I digress from my actual journey which leads me to The Lakes District.
This area is a well-know ‘must-do’ on any UK itinerary.
But it’s a journey that has become a special individual quest as well. What an extraordinary place to find!
Exploring Blencowe Hall
Among other accolades, the property (its owners and architect at time of publishing) won a 2009 Design Award, and in 2010 was an RICS North West winner of a Building Conservation award as supported by the English Heritage Council.
The estate continues to undergo renovations, but is now regularly used for parties, functions, special gatherings and events.
We were lucky enough to enjoy a private viewing.
While it has been restored to the ultimate in chic, original aspects of Blencowe Hall remain both inside and out, including stone staircases, windowsills and fireplaces.
Furnishings within complement the old-world feel, with antique wardrobes, dressers and bookshelves completing each room.
Stylish and contemporary fittings are all visitors will find in the bathrooms, kitchen and entertainment areas though.
The main home comprises of a lavish entrance hall, two reception rooms, massive kitchen and pantry.
There are three large levels boasting five bedrooms, a study bedroom, six bathrooms, mature gardens, traditional and modern range of outbuildings (including stables) across 55 hectares.
A spectacular dark glazed window over the huge crack in the south tower is the centrepiece of this unique renovation. The project was lovingly embarked upon by the property’s [current] London-based owners who spent hundreds of thousands of pounds on restoring the structure.
Their vision was to transform ruins into a historical kind of luxury.
Location of Blencowe Hall
Blencowe Hall is listed as a Grade 1 fortified medieval manor. It’s undergone ambitious renovations over the past ten years.
Perched atop a bluff above the small river of Peterill, it is surrounded by its own fields and views to the Lakeland Fells.
Blencowe Hall is nearby to the village of Greystoke which is dominated by Greystoke Castle. It’s near a fabulous pub (always important!), the Crown Inn that’s located in the Hamlet of Blencowe. Blencowe Hall is positioned on the very edge of the stunning Lakes District.
The discovery of Roman ruins, gold coins dating back to the reign of James I, artefacts and reportedly the oldest indoor toilets in the region point to the historical interest of this property.
For me though, it’s personal.
Knights and Queens at Blencowe Hall
The people who originally lived here and ran the estate are, we’ve recently discovered, my family.
Sir Henry de Blencowe was one of the most prominent members of my ancestors to live here.
Having served twice as High Sheriff of Cumberland, in 1617 he was knighted (fab!) by King James I.
Evidently there was some scandal surrounding this knighthood, but that’s ok – it’s not my place to query and am happy to have knights in my family ;-)
Another interesting link is ‘The Nine Days Queen’ angle.
Anthony Blencowe was the sixth generation of the family at Blencowe Hall. He married Winnifred Dudley who was a relation of Lord Guildford Dudley, the husband of Lady Jane Grey (that is, the ill-fated Queen of England for nine days).
Her connection to Blencowe Hall is recalled in a dedication over the main entrance in the Central Range.
It’s thought to have been inscribed by Sir Henry Blencowe during extensive renovations of the property in the late 1500s.
The inscription is in Latin but is said to read:
“Live still to die, that you by death may purchase eternal life.”
It’s a sentiment Lady Jane wrote to her sister the night before her sad end.
Alas, poor Lady Jane was caught up in the whole ‘King Edward VI (15-years-old) nominating her to be Queen before he died’ affair.
Mary (his half sister, soon-to-turn-a-bit-crazy-on-England, and daughter of Henry VIII) was not pleased at this declaration and managed to take the throne in the end.
Consequently Lady Jane ended up beheaded, along with Lord Dudley.
Interestingly (and on a similar thread), Robert Dudley, a later descendant of the Dudley family, is thought to have Royal connections.
He was one of Queen Elizabeth I’s favourite suitors. How exciting – just like an episode of The Tudors!
At the beginning
Most importantly in relation to Blencowe Hall, the original who made it all happen was a gentleman by the name of Adam de Blencowe.Â
He is the earliest traceable ancestor of our family and founder of the lands we visit here.
Adam’s estate was gradually built up in the area through the 1300s primarily thanks to gifts of land received for ‘loyal service’ from King Edward III.
Adam was actually knighted too, and granted a coat of arms. How extraordinary to think of this lifetime long ago that I’m linked to! A fascinating world of knights, manors, legends and romance. Actually, I made the romance bit up, but I’m sure it’s in there somewhere…
Another amazing historical fact: during excavation work in the area, archaeologists found an ancient Roman drainage system.
It ran from the main courtyard area of Blencowe Hall, under the north tower and out into the garden. This was measured, recorded and left intact under the new floors because it is working just as well now as it ever did!
Elsewhere around the area
Rain dissipating (finally) and sun emerging, we bid farewell to my own Downtown Abbey… er, sorry, Blencowe Hall, and zoomed off down the M6 towards Windermere.
Here you’ll find the most gorgeous (and largest) lake in England. This region around Windermere is famous for inspiring writers like William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter.
I have to admit, after visiting the quaint village with its water activities, cute dogs and bird-life, ice-cream shops and sweet local gift shops I was definitely in an inspired mood.
We headed back towards Penrith via scenic winding back roads, past the equally pretty lake-land precinct of Ullswater, across rolling green hills lined with mysterious stone walls and dotted with old homes and pubs.
A fabulous, interesting, intriguing and uniquely lovely day.
Be inspired to visit the region – view our Flickr album from Blencowe Hall and the Lakes District.Â
Getting there
nationalrail.co.uk train from Edinburgh, Manchester or London to Penrith.
Blencowe Hall is available to book or view by appointment.
Why stay in Penrith?
This Cumbrian market town is well-served by transport from all over the UK. It’s a quaint, historical spot to stop and within easy driving (or train) distance of all The Lakes District attractions including Blencowe Hall, Windermere and Ullswater.
Accommodation
The Roundthorn, Penrith for its large lovely rooms, scenic views, fantastic service, delicious breakfast and free WiFi.
Getting around
Cabs are simple and reasonable here, but for exploration of the Lakes District try Enterprise rent-a-car. They offered us pick-up + drop-off service (with a smile) and an economical deal. More on: 01768 893840 or enterprise.co.uk
Why do we love tours? For the travel, education and the friends!
Something we have begun to invest in recently is tours. This may on first thought seem to be the expensive option, or less adventurous; but more often than not, when on the ground in a big city like London, for example, you can find reasonably-priced touring options, and it is worth comparing the cost of these verses independent travel alternatives.
When time is an issue (and for most of us it is), we’ve come to recognise that a decent tour can potentially teach more about a place than might be learned in a short space on your own, especially if you’ve only got a day or so to spare in a new destination. Perhaps a tour is worth your consideration too, because by the time car hire or transport, accommodation, plus language barriers are factored in, tours are sometimes the cost-effective answer (eg. Expat Explore Europe, day tours such as Dublin Bus, Haggis Adventures in Scotland, City Sightseeing (big red hop-on-hop-off bus etc.); and even walking tours that are offered in many places.
Ultimate 6 top tour tips
1. Utilise the supermarket! If we had our time over in Europe we would take a spare case (and even a cooler bag or esky) to enable us to ‘stock up’ when there is access to a supermarket. It is by far cheaper to keep food and alcohol on hand – you will inevitably eat and drink on tour, and it’s better to have paid the equivalent of less than $2 per meal or beverage than over $5 or even $10 per unit.
2.Keep emergency numbers, passport, credit card(s) and phone with you at ALL times. Anything can happen in the time between when you step off the tour coach and when you’re supposed to meet back. Be prepared in the event of an emergency, in case you get lost or you need to make your way elsewhere on your own. It’s a last resort but can happen.
3.Multivitamins – to combat sickness, lethargy and exhaustion. It’s easy to pick up germs when travelling with a group in a confined space so being at optimum health is advantageous.
4.Walk away from the centre of town and main attractions – without exception food, coffee, souvenirs – everything in fact, is significantly cheaper.
5.Sun cream (especially a once-a-day application version like Ultrasun which can be applied in the morning before you head out to conveniently protect throughout the day), and insect repellent are essential (particularly for summer adventures).
6. Make the most out of your time by talking to others – introduce yourself, ask questions, learn about your co-travellers. Even if this isn’t your usual ‘thing’, it pays in the long run and helps forge bonds. If others join a group at varying points in time, remember to also include them into the fold. The life-long friends you’ll make are worth a little effort and personality. Plus, think how it feels when someone bothers to include you – nice, ain’t it?
Just passed a weird large graveyard with loads of commemorative stones crammed in side by side, seemingly on a concrete base, in front of a shopping centre and placed by the busy highway we’re on between Calais and Bruges (Belgium). Of course, this odd sight prompted me to make some on- the-road notes… As you may have guessed, we made it to the coach, on time even! A glass of bubbles awaited us on arrival to Canada Water this morning – a good start! We met Ali and Steve (our fab guide and coach driver) as the coach was loaded, and by 8am we had set off towards Dover.
I was excited to see the famous White Cliffs as we sailed off from the docks, although had to strategically manage my summer dress in the wind on the deck as I madly snapped some pics.
It is inspiring to gaze out through the coach window as we drive through new lands (new to me at least), spotting cute old French farm houses, French animals grazing, little local churches and cathedral steeples in the distance, street signs in a foreign language… and of course unusually, graveyards.
Even though the skies outside are turning rainy, I figure I am pretty lucky right now.
On that note, I fell asleep.
We hit the pretty (and busy) Medieval town of Bruges around 3.30pm, stopped for a quick wander, coffee and photos before moving on our way toward the Netherlands. The town centre comprises of many tall old colourful buildings, fountains, cafes with people spilling out of them into the streets, and tourists enjoying horse + buggy rides.
So far the coach ride has been fairly quiet. We’ve met Aussies (Queenslanders, we’re everywhere), Brits, Kiwis, South Africans and Americans. There are a few who speak English as a second language too, so hopefully we’ll get to know them over time – maybe learn a few new foreign phrases. This group is terrific in that it’s varied in age and nationalities – it isn’t all loud 25-year-old Aussies ;-)
Tour guide Ali tip: Water in most of Europe (on this tour anyway) is good to drink, so if on a budget just refill your water bottle. In fact, the water in Rome’s fountains is quite pure! Perhaps buy bottled water in Barcelona though.
Also, Europe is lacking in public toilet facilities, so drop in to a coffee shop for a dirnk and hope for the best in using their toilets.
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I’ll admit, I’m a fan. He’s influenced so much of our language and his stories continue to stand the test of time. I’m intrigued by the entire period he represents and so visiting Stratford upon Avon has always been part of my own ‘bucket list’ of places to see.
The guide at the cottage, Alison, was SO knowledgeable and the visit was worthwhile for all her interesting facts and stories alone.
As two cyclists pause with cameras on the country path border of the gorgeous property I’m dancing excitedly around, I’m proud to say ‘it’s mine’!
Furnishings within complement the old-world feel, with antique wardrobes, dressers and bookshelves completing each room.
A spectacular dark glazed window over the huge crack in the south tower is the centrepiece of this unique renovation. The project was lovingly embarked upon by the property’s [current] London-based owners who spent hundreds of thousands of pounds on restoring the structure.
