Amsterdam is famous the world-over, but often not for the attributes it deserves to be recognised for. Travel television series, Globe Trekker, sums up the city’s wider-known fame as being all about “sex, drugs and bicycles”.
While it is true that this is one of the only places in the world where prostitution and smoking marijuana are both legal, Amsterdam is also one of the most charming cities in Europe, with plenty more on offer!
Additionally, this city − capital of the Netherlands − undoubtedly leads on a world scale when it comes to green living, energy efficiency, and ditching the car in favour of cycling, which equates to no end in benefits for people and our planet.
Just don’t j-walk, or you risk being the recipient of unhappy head-shaking from a highway of cyclists coming at you from all directions (this I know from personal experience).
I’d only very briefly stopped in Amsterdam previously, and this time round − on a crisp and chilly winter’s week − I finally had the chance to properly explore, and wow, am I glad I did!
If you’re longing for a taste of Europe but only have a few days, Amsterdam is your answer. On the practical side, it’s extremely easy to get around; simple to navigate by foot, or catch a ride on one of the trams that scale the main streets branching away from Central Station (Amsterdam Centraal).
Amsterdam is modern, cosmopolitan, reasonably priced compared with other capitals in the region, and by all accounts, safe.
From an adventurer’s perspective, this city is just lovely, no matter what the season.
The medieval centre (where you’ll spend the majority of your time as a visitor) is built upon romantic canals (Amsterdam is often referred to as “Venice of the north”) and features over 1500 bridges.
The old centre boasts glorious cathedrals, as well as colourful warehouse buildings lining the water’s edge, most of which were built a few hundred years ago to accommodate a thriving shipping trade during the Dutch Golden Age of the 17th century. America’s greatest cities barely existed when this place was humming along back in the day, and in fact, Amsterdam was home to the first stock exchange, paving the way for modern Capitalism.
Today, the Canal Ring (dug during the 1600s) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to a few lucky land-owners who carry on centuries-old traditions of living large in such a posh and picturesque neighbourhood.
Image courtesy Amsterdam Tourism
Within the city centre you’ll be blown away by the sheer beauty of the architecture, flowers are everywhere, and thousands of bicycles are hooked up to quaint bridges brimming the canals. The whole place oozes history, and it’s pretty to boot. It’s easy to want to take a picture at every turn, but worth remembering to put the camera down for a moment to simply soak up the scene.
Shopping centres are housed in lavish structures dating back 200 years or more; and the pinnacle for a traveller − Amsterdam Centraal − an absolutely spectacular Neo-Renaissance building which has been open to the public since 1889, should be appreciated under both sun and moonlight.
This spot is a helpful ‘central’ landmark to make your way to and from when exploring the city; of note too, is the tourist information office situated across from the station’s entrance.
Image courtesy Amsterdam Tourism
Unmissable and unique attractions include the Van Gogh Museum, among many, many other extraordinary museums and showcases, depending on your tastes; Anne Frank’s House where she wrote her famous diary during World War II, exhibitions and shows − there really is something for everyone.
The curious among you should veer left off the main strip heading away from Centraal, where you’ll meander into the infamous but not-so-intimidating Red Light District. And if you’re wondering about the “coffee shop” phenomenon here but you’re not into smoking pot, you could always give what’s called a “space cookie” or muffin a go. The staff in coffee shops here are renowned for being helpful and knowledgeable – they want you to have a good experience – so ask any questions you like, and they’re sure to advise on appropriate quantities and any details you should be mindful of. Like anything that involves risk though, if you want to try (and to be fair, “when in Rome”… or Amsterdam), GO EASY, and ensure you are with trustworthy people.
Image courtesy Amsterdam Tourism
Aside from the self-guided wandering (or cycling) and visiting of famous attractions of your choosing, we highly recommend exploring the city via one of the many canal boat options; by day or night, it’s a sublime and interesting way to pass the time and learn more about this dreamy destination.
Foodies can rejoice too, because there is a lot to choose from, and many good meal, happy hour and cocktail specials scheduled around the city. There’s plenty of quirky sweet shops, waffle stands, and hot chips everywhere.
Cheese is a big deal, and rightly so − it’s fantastic! Every few streets you’ll happen upon a cheese specialty store with samples; it would be rude not to try. We thoroughly enjoyed the hour-long Reypenaer Cheese + Wine Tasting.
This mini-workshop provided a nice opportunity to learn about the process of cheese making, why it’s such a prominent industry in the Netherlands; how to match certain types of cheese with wine varieties, and of course, to taste-test. We stocked up on some vintage Reypenaer before leaving too, but it was devoured rather swiftly.
There are three ways Amsterdam should be absorbed − at street level on foot or by bike, water-level on one of the easily accessible canal experiences, and gazing down upon it all from a sky bar, martini in hand.
One of the most popular and easy-to-find (adjacent to Centraal) is SkyLounge at DoubleTree by Hilton, and anyone is free to pop up for a beverage to enjoy as the sun sets across the Northern Hemisphere.
Image courtesy Amsterdam Tourism
Tourist attractions aside, if all you want to do is wander, shop, take photos, eat and drink, that’s ok too, because you’re inevitably going to soak up this beautiful city’s energy anyway.
Pick yourself up an IAmsterdam City Card for ease of access to all attractions, discounts on dining, inclusive hop-on-hop-off travel on all city transport, and a bonus canal ride. More at iamsterdam.com
Found a fun bar playing 80s and 90s dance music, Big Shots; be mindful, in many bars that advertise you can smoke weed, generally you can NOT smoke tobacco (go figure).
Wok to Walk is found around the city and makes yummy stir fry and noodle dishes for a reasonable price.
Fantasy abounds – check this shop out, I love it! “Fairy shop, Amsterdam” – Chimera
I arrived yesterday and am quickly discovering how much I’d love to spend more time in Athens Greece. It’s my first time here and already I wish I had longer, although am planning to return soon.
Athens beckoned as the city is hosting TBEX Europe – the “Future of Travel Media” travel blogging conference, which I also attended in Dublin last year.
We enjoyed glorious sunshine yesterday – a marvellous setting for spending time in Athens Greece.
Even though I was weary from an extremely early start and a few minor airline dilemmas, I was determined to get out and explore because the next few days – aside from being busy – unfortunately threaten rain. Am hoping iPhone weather will be wrong as it often is.
After finding my accommodation, I ventured outside to take a look around, using a combination of walking, navigating the local metro and finally (as I grew confused and tired) taking advantage of the old faithful, Big Red Hop on Hop off coach, that was circling the city.
As unadventurous as it sounds, Cooper and I do enjoy participating in this kind of tour because if you’re short on time and energy, it’s an easy way to get your bearings in a city and to identify where you’d like to go back to for a better look later.
What I love so far is that Athens feels like a city brimming with character.
There are gorgeous squares and green spaces, a chic coffee and dining culture, and cool European types all over the place.
Obviously it is steeped in history. Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world, after all.
There’s nothing like the thrill of seeing extraordinary sites like the Acropolis and Parthenon outside of the pages of a book.
You can watch or read about the famous things to do and see in Athens in all manner of travel guides and documentaries.
For the moment, I’d like to share my personal impressions on Athens travel:
Spend time in Athens Greece: wanderlust top 7 travel
the not-so-obvious things to love about the city
1. It’s noisy and busy, sure, but I’ve found Athenians to be polite
Apparently pedestrians do not rule here, however, cab drivers consistently stopped to let me cross roads which I thought was polite.
At one stage though, I did wave courteously to thank the driver and I think he thought I was hailing a ride – oopsy!
When I was on the sight-seeing bus too, many people in cars or on bikes waved at passengers on board, and to me it came across as if they wanted us to know we should feel welcome.
2. Enjoying espresso slowly
I’m not sure what it is about Europe, but I ditch the usual lattes here and head straight for the mini hit of caffeine.
Unlike in Australia or the UK where you’re always on the go, here it is just “right” to be.
It’s almost instinctive to stop, sip slowly and watch the fascinating world go by.
I’ve spotted numerous squares where people appear to congregate over coffee for a chat – all surrounded by interesting buildings, nice sculptures and landscaping.
Also, if you’re indulging in a more traditional hot coffee, you do not need to drink the bottom part of the it.
Often Greek coffee is made the traditional way, boiled on hot sand – you need to “let the dust settle… and only drink the liquid part” [City Guide].
3. Character
Certainly, the hilly streets are haphazard in design, there are cracks that might trip you up, and everything is pretty much written in Greek, but that all adds to the character of the place.
I find the streets and alleys intriguing (as long as I’m not getting lost), and I also felt somehow drawn to many of the colourful gratified walls, interestingly designed and sometimes slightly shabby (I mean this affectionately) doors and archways, as well as the residential roof gardens.
The city is full of life. Understandably Athens is a place that comes across as “well lived in”, but I feel the magic in that sentiment as I meander around town.
4. The opportunity to communicate beyond words
On the topic of getting lost, yes, my innate instinct is always to go the wrong way, but I can surely be forgiven for being a little confused during my first moments in a foreign city where the language is not my own.
I made it as far as the nearest metro station to my hotel, and from there needed help. The “two minute walk from the metro station” is pretty much accurate – but which way?
As it turns out, it may be left or right out of the station, then left or right down a street longer than I’d anticipated and right onto another main and busy road. With zero access to Google Maps, it was down to old fashioned communication to get me to my final destination.
I found the spot after about twenty five minutes and querying five people along the way.
My discovery was (and continues to be) that the locals here are not “over-sharers” of information, but this could be due to the language barrier, so keep asking questions until you understand (or find someone else to help).
For example, when I asked for assistance at the airport regarding which train to take, I was pointed in the direction of the entry to the train station. “Yes I see that, but which train, which platform?” I had to prompt. And when I arrived at my destination, the instruction towards my hotel was, “outside”. Yep, figured that out!
When I got outside however, it was the local store owners who helped me so kindly, albeit in Greek, but that made the positive end-result all the sweeter. One older gentleman managing a florist wasn’t 100 per cent on the address I showed him, so he rounded up his neighbours for clarification, and then explained to me using hand gestures how to navigate the lane-ways in order to find my accommodation. As did a couple of other people I encountered along my quest de la hotel.
During the morning, prior to arriving in Greece, I came into contact with some extraordinarily rude, grumpy and bitter-with-the-world people (either that, or they were totally not “morning people”); the locals here changed my day simply by proving to be friendly and helpful, despite a language barrier.
5. It’s an easy place to practice ‘travel mindfulness’
I noticed yesterday that I was taking everything in without much thought – ‘travel mindfulness‘, if you will.
It was all an ‘experience’; the sights, smells, quirks and charms all became part of one blissful travel adventure.
If there’s one lesson I try to pass on, it’s “don’t judge”. It comes with practice, confidence and time, and a willingness to embrace the “unfamiliar”, but I hear so many tourists of all ages complaining about this and that around the world (“too noisy”, “too expensive”, “too crowded”, “too untidy”), and I wonder, seriously, if “it’s better at home”, stay there!
There’s beauty in all things and I’m surprised by how much I enjoyed my first encounter with Athens despite being tired and apprehensive I’d get lost.
That said, if you can’t appreciate a place like this – 7000 years old, the birthplace of Western civilisation and aptly named after the Greek Goddess of Wisdom, then that’s certainly a shame.
6. I discovered a reason I should move here
During the summer it’s customary to enjoy a siesta for a couple of hours, 3pm to 5pm; eating large lunches is encouraged as is staying up late and having a good time.
If only more people in the world had this attitude, happiness might spread further, I reckon.
7. Celebrity-endorsed style
Cheese and wine are also important aspects of the culture (yes, please!) and it would be easy to simply hang out here and try all the renowned restaurants, sky bars, beach side cafes, and then dance it off in a popular club.
Alas I don’t have time, but I will let you know that I found out Ethan Hawke, Meryl Streep, Oliver Stone, Hugh Jackman, Pierce Brosnan, Bruce Willis and Moby, among others, have all spent time enjoying a venue called Island, a cosmopolitan seafront haunt that I feel I might have to make a cameo in at some stage too.
That’s it for now – I aim to visit more of the city and of course get up close and personal with ancient bits and pieces, plus fit in some shopping (hopefully Cooper doesn’t read this far…).
If you have an Athens travel tip, please drop me a line in the comments below.
I’m presently hanging out at Dublin airport reflecting on my first travel blog conference experience. Appropriately the view outside of the floor to ceiling glass windows is all green: grass, trees and a fleet of Aer Lingus planes. The land of Guinness, leprechauns and lucky four-leaf clovers has really turned on the charm for me this October.
It’s not all about beer and mischievous little green men though; Dublin is a charismatic European city, brimming with stories, interesting old buildings and arts-based culture: poetry, writing, dance and song.
A refreshing difference from other sport-obsessed regions of the world. In fact, Dublin is one of only a few dubbed a UNESCO City of Literature.
Also, surely there must be an accolade for this being one of the happiest places in the world; or at least something that recognises the Irish as hysterically funny? Everything is a joke here − but in a good, laugh-your-ar$e-off kind of way. The people are what have made this trip for me, and honestly, I’m sad to leave.
I was here for the huge international TBEX travel blogging and media conference, and met an array of people from all around the world (although had the most fun with the Irish locals).
The flight from London set the tone of the trip, as I made one new friend – an English expat living in South Africa – a really interesting, enlightened woman named Patti.
She thought she might be boring me by discussing her psychic abilities, international flair, and understanding of the ‘Universe’, but no, I assured her we were obviously meant to be in seats next to each other.
She was excited to be meeting up with a new love – an Irish friend who after many years had turned into something more. She said he’s the funniest person she knows, which as I discovered seems to be a trait the Irish are born with.
The moment I walked out of the airport I was greeted with good humour. As I sought the correct coach line to wait in for a transfer to the city, I presented one driver with my e-ticket:
“Hi, I’m AirCoach,” I smiled, enquiring whether he was indeed with the company I’d booked with. He replied without a beat, “Hi I’m Graham, give me a hug!” It only worked because of his Irish charm and ‘favourite uncle’ persona, and it was indeed funny, so I thanked him for the kind welcome to Dublin.
He directed me to the correct line and as I wandered off, called out, “Miss you already.” How could I not feel welcome?
The opening night of TBEX was a blast.
Awesome drummers set the mood as we entered the famous Guinness Storehouse for a tour, food and of course, beverage sampling. My drink of the night was called a Black Velvet – a delectable mix of Extra Stout and Prosecco.
The days of TBEX learning and networking flew by, and it was a dream for this nerd girl from Australia to have the opportunity to meet and talk to the world’s most innovative travel and tech editors, journalists, bloggers, entrepreneurs and innovators.
The best part of the experience for me was to be able to meet and mingle with people I aspire to work with and/or be like. It’s a real buzz, and I’d encourage all of you to take an opportunity to attend an international conference covering topics of interest to you.
There’s nothing like stepping out of your comfort zone and experiencing something like this. I’m a little shy but decided before I attended that I’d make the most of it, so I took a chance, introduced myself to new people, chatted, swapped business cards; I think I may even have scored a couple of friends and work leads. Trust me, if I can do it, you can too!
The TBEX team along with the Irish sponsors have to be congratulated on the outstanding job they did hosting, educating and inspiring all of us.
#closeyoureyes
Most inspiring from the TBEX event (aside from Dublin itself) was probably Dan and Audrey from Uncornered Market speaking about their passion for travel and how they have turned it into a business. They ran a beautiful exercise with us as a group.
Close your eyes. Think of the first travel experience that meant something to you. Think about it, savour it, remember it; what was it that you loved? How did it make you feel?
I was 19 or so, when my brother and I made the big (for us, anyway) journey across the pond on our own from Australia to America and Canada. It was to be five challenging, scary, amazing, beautiful weeks. In fact, the best of my life to that point.
I kept a diary of the experience, and to this day it remains the one article I’d save in a fire.
I’d not considered it before, but it’s not even the contents of the diary that I’d want to retain, more the memento of how I felt on and after that trip. I discovered a passion for travel and adventure. I finally got to realise the big world my parents always talked about; I felt enlightened, empowered, inspired.
As much as that was the single most important venture of my younger life, I didn’t have an opportunity to embark on another real life-changing travel adventure for ten years.
Things happen for a reason though, and travel later in life is where ‘life’ has really begun for me.
Dan and Audrey’s #closeyoureyes exercise actually brought a tear to my eye. What do you think of when you consider your first travel experience?
They described the “transformational power of travel” – how it changes us, but also has the capacity to change lives for the people in places we visit.
I love this description because there’s so much truth in it.
Travel Ireland – add to your bucket-list
Take a look at the video above to see where our Dublin Bus tour took us on a beautiful sunny day out in Ireland (hint: castles, mountains and coast)!
During TBEX we were introduced to the new must-do Ireland attraction: The Wild Atlantic Way, 2500km of coastline dotted with beaches, harbours, headlands and stunning viewing points – an exhilarating drive along the absolute edge of Western Europe. Need more encouragement? Check out ireland.com/wildatlanticway.
Next time you’re travelling through the city of love, catch a glimpse of the past with a tour of the most historic buildings in Paris. Gareth Anderson shares his top picks…
And even such an impressive list barely scratches the surface of the number of historic buildings to be found in the city. So next time you’re staying in Paris, why not head off the beaten track to discover some of Paris’ most impressive historic buildings and how they helped shape the beautiful city. Read on for five of our favourites…
Home of the Paris Opera, the Palais Garnier is one of the most opulent buildings in the city and named after its architect, Charles Garnier. The 1,979-seat opera house was completed in 1875 and designed in the Beaux-Arts style. Its interior must be seen to be believed, and features elaborate marble friezes, columns and statuary portraying Greek mythology. The stunning building was also the setting for the 1910 novel, The Phantom of the Opera, which later inspired the hit musical known to theatre lovers around the world.
5. Hôtel des Invalides
Actually referring to a complex of buildings in central Paris, the Hôtel des Invalides was designed in the Baroque style and inaugurated in 1678. Its chief purpose relates to the military – it contains museums and monuments depicting the military history of France, as well as a hospital and retirement home for war veterans. The tombs on the site contain notable military figures – most importantly Napoleon Bonaparte – and the site’s central dome was the inspiration for Thomas U. Walter’s designs of the United States Capitol.
What other historic buildings do you know and love in Paris? Share with us on Facebook or Twitter.
I was recently contacted by a TravelLiveLearn.com reader who is excited to be touring Europe this summer with our fab mates from Expat Explore. As it’s her first time on tour in Europe in the summer, she was keen to know what she should take, and she was confused by the plethora of information available on the Internet. Being that this seemed like a valid travel query, I’ve decided to post my answer and suggestions here for anyone else lucky enough to be touring through Europe in 2013 (bliss!).
Summer tour packing tips:
High heels are not required. You definitely do need flip flops, comfortable walking shoes (there’s LOTS of walking which is fine, but you need comfy, supportive shoes that aren’t too worn), and one other pair of casual type shoes that will double for if you go out or want to wear something different to dinner – I’d suggest an easy-going, pretty pair of wedges or mid heels – an ‘all rounder’ kind of shoe. Regarding clothes and shoes, you will find that you wear the same things over and over, and a lot of the items you pack ‘just in case’ (eg. high heels, a pretty shirt that you don’t wear often, a new skirt…), you won’t wear at all. It will be hot, so think of what you feel most comfortable in when you’re at home in summer – that’s what you end up wearing all the time!
Regarding medications, obviously if you have a particular condition (eg. asthma), be prepared. Perhaps buy a packet of travel sickness tablets in case you get motion sickness from the coach or plane. If you’re in any way unsure if you get sick while travelling, get some to have on hand – always better to be prepared, and these are generally sold over the counter in pharmacies. I would always also bring a packet of paracetamol, non-drowsy antihistamines (eg. Zyrtec or cheaper generic brand), a pack of Nurofen (Ibuprofen), and not that we needed it, but I always carry something for diarrhea. Ladies, if you tend towards urinary tract problems, it’s probably a good idea to take Ural sachets (or similar), just in case. I’d also suggest taking a multivitamin with you (or Berocca), to keep your immune system up to speed. They’re exciting but long days.
You will also need a good sun cream (for face and body) – essential! – and perhaps insect repellent is a good idea too.
Prescription medicinals – Chat to your doctor in advance regarding any potential issues with health, anxiety, sleeping or illness, and make sure any prescription medication is properly labelled.
Pack light! Start a list before you go that only includes what you would wear in the summer you’re used to. Leave room in your bags, because you’ll want to stock up on food and alcohol at supermarkets along the way – trust me, this is the cheapest and most efficient way, especially if you’ve already invested a fortune in your trip already for example, if you’ve had to fork out for an airfare from the other side of the world to get to Europe/UK in the first place.
Another reason to pack light – it’s cheap enough to buy various season-appropriate clothes on the road, and let’s face it, you’ll be going shopping anyway (it’s half the fun)! Pack your comfiest shorts/skirts/tshirts – this is what you’ll live in. I am not a shorts person, but I think 90% of days on the road I lived in a denim skirt, t-shirt or singlet, hat, walking shoes and socks. All the other rubbish I had in my bag was just annoying to carry around! Also you won’t need jeans I don’t think – it’s too hot at that time of year, and they’re heavy. Pack a light cardigan or long-sleeved shirt, but remember, you can layer with singlets and t-shirts if it’s at all chilly anywhere (which I doubt it will be).
Enjoy the summer! If you have other packing tips for travelling Europe please do share, either in the comments below, or find us at Facebook.com/TravelLiveLearn or Tweet @sarahblinco.
If you’re considering a trip with Expat Explore, read about our first-hand experience HERE (we had a blast!).
Time certainly does fly when you’re having fun. Today is our last day, how did that happen? We enjoyed probably one too many Long Island Iced Teas with Barry and Paulo at our new favourite on-board restaurant/bar, Aft, last night. But, being the warriors that we are, we “battled” on to be up bright and early to embark on yet another astoundingly well organised shore excursion, this time, into France.
[More travel videos feature on YouTube’s TheSarahBlinco channel]
Marseille is a gorgeous port city; the ‘second city’ of France, and capital of the Provence-Costa Azzurra region. The city stretches along 37km of Mediterranean coastline, and the area is renowned for offering over 300 days of sunshine per year. Today was not one of those days. While I’m not one who dislikes the rain – quite the contrary, the only time it puts a ‘dampener’ on my spirits is when I want to photograph beautiful landscapes. Our images are a little light on from today’s adventure as the weather was terrible, but the city is far from awful. We toured around its rather large perimeter; past grand, typically French architecture, through narrow alleys and up steep hills to visit outstanding cathedrals, one namely being the spectacular Cathedral of Notre-Dame de la Garde.
The city comprises of buildings dating from a wide range of time periods, which means a feast for the eyes (and lens), whether you’re viewing from the top of one of Marseilles’ highest vantage point, or within the new marina at the city’s heart.
We hit Marseille’s shores on day 1 of a year-long annual festival celebrating its status as the ‘European Capital of Culture’ for 2013; a title which says something for all that is delightful and on offer here in this elegant French port stop.
Do you have a cruising story, or a Mediterranean travel tale to share? Let us know, tweet @sarahblinco or find us on Facebook. You can also read the rest of the stories in this series (more to come in coming days) HERE.
Welcome! We are Sarah + Cooper, Aussie expats living in the UK with our Westie dog, London. We like to inspire on how to travel for longer and to live and work from anywhere. Our most popular content here is about seeing the world with your pet, remote working & digital nomadism, and house + pet sitting. Create a global life of your dreams at any age! Subscribe to find out more :)
TLL SHOP!
Grab our NEW 2024 guides:
Master House Sitting with Our Must-Have 101 Essentials eGuide! Buy It Here
And, 7 Essential Strategies for Maximizing Your Use of ChatGPT eBookBuy it here
Also, Visit Our Amazon Storefront! Shop Here!
To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Functional
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
The city comprises of buildings dating from a wide range of time periods, which means a feast for the eyes (and lens), whether you’re viewing from the top of one of Marseilles’ highest vantage point, or within the new marina at the city’s heart.